This Earth Day, Let’s Remind Ourselves of the Other Curves We Need to Flatten Too

Today is Earth Day: a day to honour our planet and all that it does for us. But this year it is special; it is the 50th anniversary.

The first Earth Day took place in the United States on April 22, 1970. The idea came from US Senator Gaylord Nelson. Inspired by the anti-war movement at the time, he decided on a national day for the environment after witnessing the devastating impacts of an oil spill in Santa Barbara, California in 1969. There were thousands of events organized across the country in cities, elementary schools, high schools and on campuses including everything from going to lectures to planting trees to attending a demonstration. An astonishing 20 million Americans- 10% of the population at the time- participated in some way or another.

April 22, 1970 was an historic day. Environmentalism had entered the mainstream public consciousness; or so it seemed. The next few years would see sweeping environmental legislation and institutionalism form in the country. 1970 saw the creation of the US Environmental Protection Agency and the passing of the Clean Air Act. In the following years the Clean Water Act and the Endangered Species Act would be passed. In 1972, the harmful pesticide DDT was banned for industrial use in the US due to environmental and human health impacts, thanks in large part to Rachel Carson and her publication Silent Spring. It seemed as if the times were-a-changin‘- for now.

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The world currently looks a bit different than it did 50 years ago. Mass gatherings like the one above seem almost unthinkable now. Like many events nowadays, an Earth Day livestream is being broadcast online. There will be speakers and performing artists including Al Gore, Jack Johnson and Bill McKibben.

A lot has changed since the first Earth Day, and a lot, sadly, hasn’t. These days there is a lot of talk about ‘flattening the curve’. And rightly so: we all need to do our part to flatten the curve by practicing physical distancing and staying home as much as possible. There are notably two other curves that we have failed to flatten as a society long before the coronavirus: the rate of carbon emissions from humans and the rate of species extinction on the planet have both skyrocketed since the industrial revolution. Both these trends will have profound impacts on human populations, yet before the virus started these issues were getting a fraction of the media coverage compared to what the coronavirus is getting now.

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Source: Carbon Dioxide Information Analysis Center 

Like the coronavirus, our effectiveness in being able to flatten the curve of carbon emissions is a matter of life and death for many people. The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates about 7 million people die every year from air pollution: 4.2 million from outdoor air pollution and 3.8 million from indoor air pollution. An estimated 91% of people live in areas where air quality exceeds WHO guideline limits. That is a public health emergency if you ask me. On top of that, a study by researchers at Harvard University showed air pollution is causing higher mortality rates for people with the coronavirus. In fact if the air had been cleaner before the pandemic, thousands of lives could have already been saved.

In 2014, the World Health Organization estimated that around 250,000 people a year could die from climate change between 2030 and 2050 due to things like disease, famine and extreme weather events- all of which are predicted to get worse under a warming planet. Last year one of the co-authors of the WHO study reviewed the research and decided 250,000 was a “conservative estimate”; he predicts the number could be much higher. Additionally, climate change could force 100 million people into extreme poverty by 2030 due to things like food shortages and water scarcity due to drought.

The climate is currently at a tipping point. The United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change says we have just 10 years to drastically reduce our emissions in order to avoid the worst impacts of the climate crisis. If we don’t reduce our emissions quickly, coral reefs won’t survive, millions of people will be displaced from rising seas, freshwater resources will become more and more scarce. We are also approaching the point where the earth can no longer mitigate the effects of climate change and the problem is being exacerbated by what is called positive feedback loops. The oceans could lose their ability to absorb carbon because warmer water cannot hold as much dissolved CO2 as colder water, rainforests become carbon sources instead of carbon sinks as they dry up, massive amounts of methane is released from melting permafrost in the Arctic and decreasing sea ice and glaciers in the north and southern hemispheres means more of the sun’s energy is absorbed by the planet as opposed to reflected back out to space. It’s a recipe for disaster.

In addition to carbon emissions, the rate of species extinction has also skyrocketed in the past few hundred years. Scientists estimate we are losing around 150-200 species every single day- about 1000x faster than the natural rate of extinction. As a result we are currently in the planet’s sixth mass extinction event in what is now the Holocene era. The Earth has had 5 mass extinction events before, the last one taking place at least 65 million years ago, resulting in the demise of the dinosaurs. It is important to note that there is a strong relationship between the climate crisis and the biodiversity crisis: a study released this year from researchers at the University of Arizona showed 1/3 of all species could go extinct in 50 years from climate change. Other reasons for biodiversity loss include habitat destruction and pollution. Similar to climate change, humans are vulnerable to the impacts of declining biodiversity: we are dependant on ecosystems for things like purifying our water, producing oxygen, pollinating our crops or providing fish to eat. A study in the journal Nature estimates the value of ecosystem services at around $33 trillion annually.

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Source: Study published in the journal Science Advances (described by the authors as a “highly conservative estimate”).

Flattening the curves of carbon emissions and species extinction won’t be easy by any means, but what the coronavirus has showed us is that large-scale mobilization on a global scale is possible. It has even been described as a ‘war time effort’, which is exactly the kind of determination we will need to fight the climate crisis. That is in essence, what the Green New Deal is. The Green New Deal is a massive stimulus program put forward by Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasia-Cortez and Senator Ed Markey that would fast-track the transition to renewable energy and radically reduce emissions, while also addressing social issues like wealth inequality. The program would create millions of jobs by investing large amounts of money into renewable energy, energy conservation and public transportation. The legislation is modelled after the ‘New Deal’, an economic and social reform program designed by Franklin D. Roosevelt to help restart the economy in response to the Great Depression.

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In order to fight the coronavirus and save lives, we often hear about making sacrifices for the common good. It is a narrative that comes up again and again in the media and from politicians. Climate change is quite the opposite to the coronavirus in that young people are most at risk, but similarly we should expect sacrifices made for us from older people. Yet time and time again our political leaders have shown us they are not willing to make sacrifices for future generations. They have shown us this by investing $12 billion into the construction of a new oil pipeline or $275 million to build a new gas plant, instead of spending that money on renewable energy. They have shown that they are only willing to make minor changes to their business-as-usual agenda, that they will listen to the advice of medical experts but blatantly ignore the echoing warnings from climate scientists for decades.

I know times like these are tough; many people don’t even want to think about things like climate change with all that’s going on. But the reality is it is not going away. Justin Trudeau even said it himself: “Just because we’re in one crisis right now doesn’t mean we can forget about the other one- the climate crisis we are facing as a world and as a country”. I don’t think I’m alone when I say I want to imagine a better world after this all over. If we wanted to, we could pass our own Green New Deal here in Canada to transform Alberta’s energy sector and put thousands of Canadians to work. In the meantime, we can start at home. You can honour Earth Day in whichever way you like- whether it be baking bread, planting a garden or listening to David Attenborough on BBC. That way we can all be a part of the change we want to see.

 

Honduras

Honduras may not be top of mind for a lot of backpackers. It’s dodgy reputation and lack of tourist spots tends to keep a lot of visitors at bay; many only see the country from inside their shuttle bus from Guatemala to Nicaragua. If you want to get away from tourists and venture off the beaten track however, this is the place to go.

If you’re going to go anywhere in Honduras, it’s probably Utila- my first destination. Utila is a small island in the Caribbean, and to get there you have to take the ferry from La Ceiba. It was about an hour boat ride, and we had a nice view of the setting sun over the water.

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The main reason to go to Utila is for diving; there’s not much else to do there. It is actually one of the cheapest places in the world to scuba dive. The first thing that happens when you get off the boat is you are greeted by people handing you brochures trying to sell you their dive shop. I eventually settled on a place and started my 5 day Open Water certification course. The course begins with about 5 hours of videos and reading and answering questions in the textbook. We then learn about the gear and how to use it and set it up. Next we wade into the water and try breathing underwater for the first time with the respirator, which was so weird! It feels really unnatural at first, but you get used to it. Then we start to go a bit deeper in the water and practice some scenarios like take my goggles off underwater and put them back on, take my respirator out of my mouth and put it back, switch to my buddy’s alternate respirator- preparing for things that could potentially happen underwater. Then we got to do some actual diving; exploring the reef for the first time is really cool. It’s like a different world down there, I saw all kinds of fish and coral formations I had never seen before.

After I finished my Open Water course I went on to do my Advanced dive course for which we covered navigation, buoyancy, fish ID, as well as the wreck dive, deep dive and night dive. For navigation we practiced orienteering with a compass and using natural formations underwater as bearings. For buoyancy we practiced being able to control how much we sink or float with our breath: when you breath in you rise as your lungs fill with air, and when you exhale you sink as your lungs empty. You can adjust your buoyancy by adding or taking away air from your vest and by adding more or less weight to your weight-belt beforehand. We had to do things like swim through a hoop and hit a rock on the ground with our respirator without touching the bottom. For fish ID we recorded some fish we saw underwater and tried to ID them afterwards. For the deep dive we went down to 30 metres. With the Open Water certification the deepest you can go is 18 metres- with the Advanced it is 30. As you go down you have to equalize- plug your nose and blow into it so that your ears don’t blow from the pressure. When we got down to 30 metres we explored what was my first shipwreck, which was a really neat experience. Shipwrecks have a really eery feeling to them. They become their own ecosystem in a way: algae grows on them, fish start living in them. The night dive was pretty straightforward; everyone carries a flashlight and dives like normal- except it’s dark. There’s less to see in terms of marine life because most of the fish are dormant at that time (they have to sleep too!), but it adds a whole new feeling to the experience which makes it a lot of fun.

I don’t have any pictures underwater unfortunately, but I did get some in Colombia (stay tuned).

Me on the night dive:

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On the boat:

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About to backroll in:

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Fish ID page:

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Utila itself is also a fun place to be. I was there in low season, so it was fairly quiet, but I could imagine in high season it would be very lively. Even still I had lots of fun. The main drag is lined with restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs. The variety of people there means the food options are good- I remember having a buddha bowl in a hipster cafe and a shawarma at a lebanese restaurant. And of course the seafood was great. Utila is not exactly somewhere you go for a cultural experience of Honduras. The place has been taken over by expats and tourists; there’s more English spoken than there is Spanish- which is fine. You go to Utila for the cheap diving and shenanigans, not the culture.

The main street in Utila:

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View from the hostel:

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If you’re going to go anywhere in Honduras besides Utila, there’s a good chance it’s Copan. Copan is a small colonial town lined with cobblestone streets and surrounded by coffee and chocolate plantations. It is most well known for Copan Ruinas, but there is lots to do and see in Copan besides that. In addition to the ruins, when I was there I went horseback riding, visited a bird rehabilitation centre and visited a local chocolate/coffee shop.

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View from the hostel:

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My last destination in Honduras was the D&D Brewery. The brewery/hostel was in a nice forested area and was a perfect place for people who want to split up the long drive from Utila to Leon in Nicaragua. When I was there I went hiking, visited a waterfall and went for a really nice kayak on Lake Yojoa. We also explored a bit of the nearby town, not that there was much to see. There were very little tourists there, and the locals were really friendly. The most memorable part of my time there was definitely the kayaking; the lake was beautiful and we saw tons of different kinds of birds. We also got an early start while the water was still really calm and before it got too hot which really helped.

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That’s a wrap for Honduras. Next up- Nicaragua.

Guatemala

Guatemala was probably my favourite country in Central America. There’s lots of culture, the climate is pleasant, the food is good and there’s some really cool places to see.

I landed in Guatemala City in October, 2019, and from there I took the shuttle to Antigua where I started my trip. I spent a few days there so I got to explore a bit. I did a walking tour when I was there and learned some of the history of the town.

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When I was in Antigua I did the popular 2 day hike up Volcan Acatenango. The first day is about 5 hours to get to the base camp where the tents/beds are already set up. It was raining by the time we got there, so we hid out in our rooms for a while until the rain stopped. It eventually cleared and we got a really nice view of the valley and Volcan Fuego, an active volcano that would explode every couple minutes! When it got dark enough you could see the lava clearly in the night. The next day we got up really early (around 4am) and hiked the last 30 minutes to the top in time to see the sunrise. We were very fortunate to have a clear morning so we had a perfect view all around. We then went back to base camp where we had breakfast, and then started our descent down.

Base camp:

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Volcan Fuego:

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View from the top!

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Acatenango was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. From Antigua my next destination was Lake Atitlan. Lake Atitlan is a giant lake with plenty of pueblos (towns) scattered along its shores. I stayed in San Pedro and San Marcos when I was there. San Pedro is a backpacker hotspot with plenty going on- walking down the main street you will be handed a flyer for a show or party going on that night. When I was there I did the (for lack of a better term) ‘Indian nose’ hike, where we got up really early and hiked up one of the small mountains to see the sunrise. I also visited nearby San Juan, which has a big arts community. There’s loads of places selling paintings, textiles and pottery there, and they have some good cafes too. I also went kayaking on the lake once. San Marcos is a different vibe; it’s quieter, and has become a popular spot for hippie expats and yogis around the world. There’s plenty of yoga studios, meditation centres and massage parlours. The hostel I stayed at was right on the lake with a dock so you could go swimming. They also had a yoga studio with glass windows and a view of the lake.

San Pedro:

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San Marcos:

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Local ‘tuk-tuk’s’ (taxis), San Pedro:

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Typical Guatemalan meal:

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This is an example of a meal I really like. Especially the tortillas, they are always made fresh in Guatemala. You can buy them right on the street. Unfortunately I didn’t find the food anywhere else as good as Guatemala. It started to be less beans and rice and more meat and fried food. They don’t exactly eat very healthy down there. Avocados were actually pretty uncommon with meals in Central/South America (but you could buy them in stores or on the street). I also didn’t see many tortillas after Guatemala either.

View of San Pedro from the ‘Indian nose’ hike:

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After Lake Atitlan my next destination was Semuc Champey. Semuc Champey was beautiful, there’s not really any other way to describe it. It is a protected area with a river and streams going through it and different pools and waterfalls. When I was there I did a tour that involved going into the caves they had in the park. The tour guide gave us all candles and lit them for our light source. In the caves we walked through water, sometimes swimming up to our necks, and made our way up through the caves and over some little waterfalls with the help of ropes and ladders. Then we got to swim and enjoy a couple spots in the park. After that we went tubing down the river back to our hostel. We all linked up for more stability as the rapids were actually pretty big!

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View from my hostel (this is where I ate breakfast!)

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After Semuc Champey my next destination was Flores. Flores is in the northern region of Guatemala. Most people go to Flores to visit Tikal, probably the most famous Mayan archeological site there is. When I was there I also went to another smaller Mayan site called Yaxha, in addition to Tikal; both were impressive. Our guides were knowledgable and told us a lot about the history of the area. What I found most interesting was only about 5-10% of the pyramids were dug out. They do this to preserve the other pyramids and also because it would just be a lot of work (and very expensive) to dig them all out. The Mayans actually drove themselves to extinction. They cut down all the trees in the area and eventually there was a drought and they all died. There’s probably something we could learn from them…

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We got to enjoy the sunset in Tikal and Yaxha from one of the temples.

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Fun facts: The temples at Tikal actually appeared in Star Wars Episode 4. Also, the howler monkeys at Yaxha were actually recorded and used for the sound of the dinosaurs in Jurassic Park. If you hear them in real life, you’ll know why.

After Flores I made my way to Livingston on the Caribbean coast. I learned that the Caribbean has a distinct culture, no matter what country you’re in. All of a sudden it’s more people speaking English (with a ‘Jamaican’ accent), you hear Bob Marley music everywhere, there’s more black people and the seafood is very good. It didn’t really feel like I was in Guatemala anymore! When I was there I did some kayaking, hiked to some waterfalls and snorkeling. The town is only accessible by boat from the Rio Dulce. It takes about an hour and a half- an incredible boat ride on the river.

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Local tapado dish (seafood soup)- fish, crab, shrimp, plantain and a curry coconut broth.

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That’s all for Guatemala. After that I went to Honduras! Stay tuned…